(HBO Video) - Mavericks Half Moon Bay Surfing
/“You can get pinned down there. I think that’s how most people drown at Mavericks. I’ve been there. I’ve had conversations with God in that same spot. No one even talks about the sharks. You couldn’t make a scarier big wave. Falling feels like hitting cement. Then the thrashing comes and you feel like King Kong’s got a hold of your feet, swinging you around like a rubber chicken.”
